Recently, I corresponded with a knowledgeable collector regarding Pure Pashmina Shawls from Kashmir. Although very familiar with very high quality Pure Pashmina, she posed some detailed questions that I was happy to provide answers for and thought our many friends and collectors would be interested in the conversation. Following are excerpts from our discussion:
Q. What is the difference between pure pashmina and pure cashmere? Also, which of the varieties is closest to shahtoosh?
A.The basic difference between Pure Pashmina and Pure Cashmere is the diameter of the fiber. Both are from the Caprus Hircus goat native to the Tibetan Plateau. In Kashmir, a fiber is generally considered to be heirloom quality Pure Pashmina if the diameter is 11-14/15 microns, and Cashmere if the fiber measures at 15/16-19 microns. Fibers over 19 microns are termed "wool." These are subtle differences but experienced collectors can easily determine the difference by lightly brushing their hand across the surface of a hand-loomed shawl. Pure Pashmina is softer and is the closest one can get to the feel of the Shatoosh, which is interntionally banned for trade by most countries in the civilized world. You might find it interesting to read our Shawl Textiles section for more detail.
Many people are not aware of the beauty and value of authentic Pure Pashmina from Kashmir, as it rarely makes it's way to the U.S. Even amongst the Kashmiri designers and producers, there remain only a few old hands who have the real knowledge about these shawls and who are still dedicated to providing the absolute best quality.
Most contemporary producers even there are now blending wool with the Pashmina and passing it off as Pure Pashmina. Others who care only about their profit are weaving high quality, very soft lambswool and foisting it off on the world market as Pure Pashmina from Kashmir. And, there are many producers in India and China who sell acrylic or angora represented as Pure Pashmina. Still others in Nepal offer poor quality weaves of Pashmina blends or even actual Pashmina and Cashmere with terrible quality spun yarns at a "discount." An unfortunate outcome of these practices is that many honest retailers and etailers who offer shawls as Pashmina or Pure Pashmina are unknowingly participating in these unethical schemes.
At Hamsa Shawls, we know our producers personally, and have been schooled in the various qualities of Pure Pashmina by the masters of this textile art. The Pure Pashmina shawls from the Hamsa Shawls Collection are offered at a value far below actual market. Our prices are more than fair, as these shawls are already greatly understated compared to European, Mid Eastern, and Asian markets. In addition, they are becoming more difficult to source due to the continuing troubles in Kashmir and are subject to other cost factors which are pushing prices up such as rapidly increasing VAT and export taxes in Kashmir and India. We bring in only a few pieces of the finest quality as they become available so that our collectors here have the opportunity to acquire one of these heirloom pieces which would otherwise unavailable on the general market.
Nearly all Pure Pashmina yarns are dyed to achieve shading within a particular range before being hand-loomed, even the ones in lighter colours such as soft white, beige, and natural looking browns. There will always be variations in how individual fibers accept the dyes, however, so any particular colour will show slight differences of shading within the weave. In India, the heather weaves are highly prized for interest. Here in the U.S., some collectors like the plain weaves while others prefer a heather. It just all comes down to a matter of personal taste.
If you have never owned a quality Pure Pashmina shawl before, we suggest focusing on which colour is most suitable for your wardrobe, and thus which shawl would receive the most use. It is also helpful to consider whether you are seeking a Pure Pashmina shawl for a special occasion, for general wear, as a gift, or if you are just starting your own collection of better pieces. If you really do want to acquire a Pure Pashmina shawl from Kashmir for yourself, we think it best if you initially order one shawl so that you can experience first hand the delicacy and superior warmth factor offered by these lightweight, hand-loomed wraps. And as mentioned, select a colour that you will wear often. It is of no use to order an expensive shawl in a color that remains packed away because it does not complement one's wardrobe.
As Always, with Warm Thoughts,
Sylvia, Chief Shawl Lover
Hamsa Shawls, Shawls for All Seasons with Designer Shawl Luxury
Tuesday, March 31, 2009 at 03:07PM